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Casa del Sun (July 2005) by Eric and Sue |
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We passed the time
waiting for the flight from Liverpool John Lennon to Malaga Airport most
pleasantly in the Weatherspoons bar in the company of several pints of draught
Abbot Ale, a most welcome innovation given the looming hardship of 2 weeks
enforced subsistence on the dreaded Eurofizz. The Spanish people have achieved
much over the many centuries of their
history however the art of brewing doesn't
feature highly on their list of
accomplishments. Needless to say we
felt little pain during the Easyjet flight itself, the only minor panic on
arrival being the non-appearance of my guitar on the baggage reclaim carousel. In fact
it had fallen to the floor out of our line of sight and nobody was kind enough
to replace it. Quick whinge, why must everybody ignore the markings and crowd
tight up alongside the carousel? |
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Dave and Carol were
there to meet us and 20 minutes later we arrived at their villa just outside
Estación de Cártama. To the rear of the villa was the detached bungalow which
was to be our home for the next 2 weeks. We quickly deposited our luggage (and
our clothes), took a quick dip in the pool and got the barbecue burning. Dave
has a gas barbeque and there is also a charcoal barbecue for use by guests on
the small private patio to the rear of the bungalow. In practice we put the
barbecues together and used the charcoal for grilling and the gas (with its
swivelling cover) as an outdoor oven for roasting.
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During this time we
got ourselves acquainted with Trixie, Ben and Toby, terriers whose job it is to
mind the 'estancia' while the humans are out and about their business - and gain
as much of their attention as possible whilst they are in!
A few notes about
the bungalow. It sleeps 4 in double and twin bedrooms, has a lounge with Sky TV,
video and hi-fi. We can only presume that they work as they are 'luxuries' we
are happy to sacrifice when on holiday in a beautiful country with marvellous
weather! A sliding patio door opens onto the private patio equipped with table,
chairs and sun-loungers. We enjoy a quiet start to the day and the patio was an
idyllic place for a leisurely breakfast prior to a hard day soaking up the sun
beside the pool!
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The kitchen is small
but equipped with all the necessities:- fridge, cooker, microwave, kettle,
toaster, etc, etc. Finally there is a shower room with washbasin and toilet, all
brand new as this was the last part of the bungalow to be completed.
Although
there is no air conditioning the patio door and all windows are fitted with
sliding fly screens which provide a nice flow of air. Despite daytime
temperatures in the high 30's and low 40's we had no problems sleeping and never
found ourselves sharing a room with flying, biting nasties. |
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Although the village
of Estación de Cártama is within walking distance (just over 2 miles) the
situation is rural and you can be naturist at any time and in all parts of the
property. Trees, bushes, and where necessary screened fencing, ensure privacy.
Although aircraft can be heard approaching (a very busy) Malaga airport they are
sufficiently distant not to be intrusive. In fact the main disturbance is when
the local goatherd drives his animals past the bottom of the garden as they go
in search of grazing.
The village itself
is pleasantly Spanish although with a few places favoured by ex-pats. Giorgios
is a bar and pizzaria, now under British ownership which is well worth a visit.
Their spaghetti in garlic sauce is evil, or so everybody kept telling me the
next day. Toppers Rest is an 'English Bar' which has Worthington on draught -
not quite Timothy Taylors Landlord but... and Pepes is a cafe which sells cakes
to die for. The Chinese was recommended though we didn't try it.
Our favourite eating
place was up the hill as you enter Cártama Pueblo. If you are a serious lover of
seafood then Cafe Bar El Pescaito is THE place to go. A huge plate of the local
catch costs about € 8.50 and you are likely to get anything that's available,
prawns, octopus, squid, cuttlefish, anchovies, clams, you name it. Everything is
absolutely fresh, tender and very tasty. For the more conservative minded, the
cod and chips will probably knock spots off your local takeaway.
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So what did we do
apart from laze by the pool, eat and drink (why bother with more you might say)? We had to
revisit some holiday spots of the past.
We spent a day at Costa Natura near
Estepona but unfortunately the place was going through a difficult patch with a
bankrupt management company and unpaid workers demonstrating outside. This
didn't greatly affect us visiting for a day but we were told of various
difficulties being experienced by people staying in the complex.
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We also visited Almanat near Torre del Mar to the east of Malaga. We had fun finding our way to
the beach without going through the Almanat site itself. Finally, after
following a track through a field of maize growing about 3 metres tall and
almost forming a living tunnel we found a parking place at the top of the beach
just 200 or 300 metres from the Almanat beach bar and cafe.
A place we hadn't
been to before, but had heard a lot about, was the naturist cove at Benalmadena.
Easy to get to, you can park close to the flight of steps leading down, probably
about 30 metres, to the cove. There was a good atmosphere and mix of couples, some single sex, and singles. The beach bar and cafe provided good food and
service and overall it seemed the kind of place where we would have been happy
to spend our time if a beach holiday had been our intent.
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We aren't great
sightseers but one place we couldn't miss, having seen photos, was the 'lakes'
area. These are actually huge reservoirs formed by dams (embalses) holding back
the Guadalteba and Guadalhorce rivers. This is one of many beautiful parts of
Andalucia and anybody who visits the south of Spain but only sees the (rapidly
becoming intolerably crowded) coastal areas has missed a truly scenic
experience. Whilst there we visited a hill top bar 'La Mesa' . The place was
quiet, empty in fact, but the proprietor was employing his time usefully by
bathing his pet ferret. That's rural Spain and that's why we like it! |
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So what else? We
always thought Dominoes were a total bore till Dave and Carol taught us 'Threes
and Fives'. This became our regular evening pastime (evenings by Spanish custom
extending to 2 or 3am) played on the veranda and accompanied by copious
quantities of brandy and coke. If you're interested the rules are available at
dominoes.com, we played with a double nines set - much better than the
regular double sixes.
In conclusion, if you want a relaxed naturist holiday in rural Spain you could
do much much worse than Casa del Sun. It would be possible to do without a car (Carol will take
you to the supermarkets with her) and from Cártama station you can get about by
rail. However for most people car hire would be a practical necessity. If you
really hate dogs you'd probably be going to the wrong place although they're a
(very) friendly pack and added much to our holiday. Sue was constantly
threatening to dognap Ben to the point of training him to travel in our hand
baggage! (See our photo album).
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